Orchids

My orchids are rare Phalaenopsis. That sounds impossible, or at least highly unlikely, considering phalaenopsis are the orchids most commonly grown in a home environment. However it's true. Mine are from a breeder, whose focus is cultivating new species of phalaenopsis. What will surprise many people is that my orchids are so short. They would be a bit more impressive staked. I don't receive them staked, and I usually don't stake them.

Orchids are not an easy, instant gratification plant. They take care and patience. Success with orchids requires balancing light, water, fertilizer and air flow. Since phalaenopsis are considered the easiest species for the inexperienced, most home growers begin with phal, also called the moth orchid. I would like to share my bits of knowledge with you. I've also included basic terms. I will tell you what you can reasonably expect and share with you how my experience has varied.

Please note that I am NOT a master gardener. Don’t think of this page as your only resource on orchid care. There are many fine websites, just make sure they include information for your orchid, since it may not thrive on recommendations for another species.

I sincerely hope this page will be helpful and that you will bookmark it and refer to it. Please pass a link along to anyone you think could benefit.

~ Shilo

~ Phalaenopsis Terms and Tidbits ~

When the definition of a term includes another term defined on this page, the term is in bold type. A picture may illustrate more than one term. Captions accompanying pictures list the terms in bold type. Left click on pictures for a larger view.

Air Flow ~ an orchid may grow roots that burrow into the soil or wave in the air. Orchids require air flow around their roots; DO NOT completely bury roots in the potting medium.

Aerial Root ~ a root waving in the air.

Bloom Frequency ~ for the first couple of years after your orchid begins blooming it will probably bloom once a year, more mature plants may bloom twice a year.

Bloom Length ~ most people I've met say their orchids bloom for two weeks. Phalaenopsis can bloom eight to twelve weeks. If they aren't happy, they will probably only bloom once.

You would think orchids would take a rest after blooming, but they don't seem to. They can go immediately into growing leaves while still blooming and then begin blooming with they are still growing leaves! 

Babies ~ your orchid may also have a baby! See plantlet or Keiki.

Bud ~ an unopened bloom. It begins as a swelling on the spike.

Bud Blast ~ buds drop off without opening. Your orchid can recover and may finish blooming if the problem is dealt with. See Shocking your Orchid.

Shocked orchid suffering from Bud Blast

Crown ~ the clump at the base of the plant. The spikes and leaves grow from this juncture where they meet the roots.

Cutting Bloom Spikes ~ cut bloom stalks after blooming has ended about 1" above the base of the spike. Touch the cut with powdered cinnamon from your spice shelf to seal the cut and maintain its health. Also see rebloom.

Five cut spikes sandwiched between leaves. Top left spike cut months ago is still green!

Disinfecting Tools ~ dirty tools can spread diseases. The easiest way to clean your tools is by using rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab or cotton ball. Rinse and let dry. Clean before using. Clean  before touching the next plant.

Fertilizer ~ use a fertilizer that was developed for orchids, they have different needs than other flowering plants. Use it at half strength and at every watering. I use Orchid Plus, a water soluble 20-14-13 fertilizer by Better-Grow in this ratio 1/8 t per 2 C water at every watering. It is the fertilizer and strength that the garden center I trust uses at every watering.

Humidity Tray ~ orchids LOVE humidity more than anything. You can place your orchid in a tray of water to give it constant humidity. Place the pot on stones or on an overturned small plate. DO NOT allow the water to touch the bottom of the pot.

Hybrid ~ a cross between two species of orchids, two orchid hybrids, or a hybrid and a pure species. Although a hybrid can occur naturally in the wild, normally it is a planned result by a breeder.

Insecticide ~ you can use a good quality insecticide regularly on your plants as a preventative to ward off problems. If you choose to do so, obtain the advice of an orchid professional you trust before purchasing one. I obtained one when I discovered my mega bloomer was infected and used it long enough to insure the problem was defeated and had not spread. Then I discontinued the practice. I prefer to keep an eye on my plants and treat when there is a problem, rather than dose a well plant.

Keiki ~ a baby orchid produced by a mature plant. It can grow from a spike or from the crown/base (basal keiki). Althought keiki are usually removed and potted once they have a few good roots, they can remain with their parent. I feel this is more viable for basal keiki than for those growing on a spike. At least in my house with a rambunctious kitten that loves to sit in the same window as the orchids.

Two Basal keiki with two leaves each are at center front and back
sandwiched between two plants 

Keiki may have their first flowering between 1 to 3 years depending upon what size they were, how developed their root system was when separated from their parent, and how happy they are.

Light ~ bright but not direct. Do be careful not to chill your orchids or broil them. I do not let spikes or leaves touch the window pane. I also draw the drapes back during the day to help regulate the temperature. Even so one orchid was shocked this past summer either through too much sun or too little moisture.

Once the spike begins growing and particularly when it begins to bud, the plant will be happier if it faces the same direction each time you return it to its position after watering.

If a spike is left unsupported, I have found they tend to grow towards the south.

Leaf Health ~ healthy leaves can vary in appearance with different species of orchids. This is a very general guideline.

-      Leaves should be a medium green.
-     Yellow leaves indicate the orchid is over watered. Also see yellowing.
-     Wrinkled/accordioned leaves indicate the plant is under watered.
-     Dark green, limp leaves indicate it isn't getting enough light.
-      Young plants can lose one or two leaves shortly before blooming.
-      Mature plants can lose leaves, however they do not have the tendency to lose them immediately prior to blooming.
-      If the bottom nodes are turning brown and one leaf is a bit wrinkly, it may be preparing to grow a new leaf.
-     When a plant blooms it usually won't begin growing a new leaf until it is nearing the end of its bloom cycle.

You can expect at least one new leaf a year. Mine grow at least two a year, perhaps more.

Light ~ filtered light is recommended, especially for windows that receive strong light such as south facing windows. I have two orchids on a window ledge behind a sheer curtain to help diffuse the light, and four on a window ledge without a sheer. Orchids thrive in east or west windows. Shaded south or west windows are okay.

Orchids will respond well to being summered outdoors in a protected area with indirect light.

They do best if they are not subjected to light 24 hours a day. With my orchids on a window ledge, I simply draw my curtains and drapes at night to darken their environment.

Medium ~ the mixture in which a potted orchid grows. Roots need air. Choose a medium with large particles leaves air pockets for the roots. Beware of over watering, as water replaces air in the pockets.

Bark breaks down more quickly than some other mediums. Repot every 1 to 2 years.

Misting ~ mist in the mornings only to allow the water to evaporate before nightfall. Liberally mist the roots and leaves, but not to the extent that water pools in the base of the leaves. If it does, soak it up with the corner of a dry cloth. Misting does not give orchids the constant humidity they crave.

DO NOT mist blooms, it shortens their lifespan.

Node ~ a swollen joint or notch on a spike. A secondary flower spike can emerge from a node. See Side Shoot and Rebloom.

First and second node on spike

NOID ~ term indicating the species of orchid is unknown.

Plantlet ~ a baby orchid produced by a mature plant. It can grow from a spike or from the crown/base (basal keiki). They are usually removed and potted once they have a few good roots. I have read that they can remain with their parent. I feel that is a more viable option if they grow from the crown rather than on a spike.

The orchid with two large basal keiki has a spike. I am thinking of leaving the babies with mom when I repot after it finishes blooming. See Keiki.

Potting Mediums/Mixtures ~ common mediums can contain some of the following: moss, bark, soil and styrofoam bits.

Pot Size and Type ~ orchids like being snug in a pot. Choose a pot that gives the roots some space, but no more than an inch on all sides. They don’t like plenty of room to grow. Clear plastic pots are ideal for seeing the condition of the roots including whether they need watering. It can be placed inside a pretty pot. Roots also like traditional red pots.

I have one plant in a glazed pot intended for orchids. It grows successfully, however the roots stop growing at the opening when they encounter the glaze.

Pots must have good drain holes at the bottom. Also see Repotting.

Rebloom ~ blooms on a new spike growing from an original spike. After main blooming has finished there may be a few buds on the tip of the spike that will take longer to open. If the lower nodes are green and plump and the leaves are healthy, the plant might like to bloom again. You can choose to cut off the spike with those last few buds, or wait until the last bloom begins to fade to cut off the spike. This will sometimes encourage the growth of a new spike.

Use sterile tools to cut the spike 1/2" above the second or third healthy node. If one of the nodes has a tiny green tip tucked inside chose this one and cut about an inch above the node. It is necessary to cut off the portion of the spike beyond the node, to redirect the nutrients which have been feeding the blooms.

Tiny tips inside three nodes. Easier to see if you click for close up

Touch the cut with powdered cinnamon from your spice shelf to seal the cut and maintain its health. Within a month a new spike may begin growing and within 2 to 3 months it can begin to bloom. You can expect fewer and smaller blooms than the main spike. Don’t be discouraged if your orchid doesn’t rebloom. Younger and weaker plants may not rebloom, and some orchids are genetically incapable of reblooming.

If the spike is turning yellow or brown, the bottom nodes are turning brown, or one leaf is wrinkled it is not a good candidate for reblooming. See Wrinkled Leaf.

After it has finished reblooming see Cutting Bloom Spikes for where to cut the original spike.

Repotting ~ repot every other year to freshen the potting mix. It is best to repot when your orchid isn't in bloom; ideally in late spring after the main flowering season.

Moss should be wet when used. Soak bark potting mixture 24-48 hours prior to use.

Prepare your tools, pot, medium, then wash the old medium off of the roots. This will make the roots more flexible and easier to repot. Using sterile tools cut off dead or unhealthy roots. Do not block drainage holes with bits of clay or rocks as you may with some other plants. Place a little medium in the bottom of the pot. Position the plant and gently add medium until it touches the base of the bottom leaf. Tap the pot allowing the mixture to settle. Take care not to cover any roots with the mixture. Touch your plant. Is it stable? If not press the medium around it. See Roots and Pot Size and Type.

Do not water your plant for three to five days. Disturbing your orchid is hard on it. Expect it to take 2-3 weeks to recover.

Roots ~ when an orchid has just been watered the new roots are fully green and plump. As the potting mixture and roots dry the root casing becomes white. White is healthy. Looking at the color of the healthy roots will help you judge when to water it again. Your plants won’t all want to be watered on the same time schedule, so pick a happy medium.

Healthy roots, older roots, cut spikes, crown, moss on bark mix medium
Leaf stress courtesy of a kitten

Roots vary, some are pretty, some aren't. Some never look as fresh when they are brand new as others do when they are older, some tend to look dry quickly; be careful not to over water these.

Roots are like nice shiny green pennies when they pop out. They stay green for quite a while. Brown, wrinkled, hollow, spongy indicates old or unhealthy roots. Even is your plant is on a watering cycle it likes, roots age and will dry out and shrivel and die; don't worry about it. There is no reason to be concerned unless your orchid is not growing nice new roots.

Shocking your Orchid ~ if they don’t get enough water, enough moisture, or get too much sun, the plant can become “shocked”. The result is a bud blast.

Side Shoot ~ when a plant is mature, it may grow a branch on a blooming spike, which is pretty cool. A side shoot grows from a node. It can develop buds and bloom!

Left: Side shoot on original spike on left; secondary spike on right

Right: Young side shoot

Species ~ a plant distinctly different from any other plant. Pure orchid species grow slowly over the years and tend to be smaller.

Spike ~ the flowering stem or stalk. When it first peeps out of the base, you may think it is a root.

Temperature ~ phalaenopsis do well with temperature fluctuations between 60-65 at night and 75-85 during the day.

Our orchids bloom nicely in rooms with a heater/air conditioner unit set at 76 day and night. Closing and opening the drapes twice a day creates the most temperature fluctuation. Pulling the curtains closed at night especially in cooler months will subject them to the temperature change that helps them bloom.

I open the drapes during the day to avoid trapped heat buildup during the summer and dispel winter chill.

Watering ~ DO NOT keep a phalaenopsis moist at all times. They like to dry out some, but do not let it dry out completely. It stores water in its leaves.

Flush with water. Three times around the pot is sufficient to have water streaming out the bottom of the pot. I let mine stand in water for five to ten minutes while watering. Take this opportunity to look at the water. Is anything floating in it other than bits of medium? I’ve seen both tiny insects and a green worm of some sort! I rescued the worm and put it outside.

Water in the morning to allow the moisture to evaporate from the leaves before nightfall. If water pools at base of leaf, blot the excess water. Water every five to ten days depending upon  your medium, how dry your home is, and the season. They will want to be watered more often during the long hotter days of summer, which are more drying for your plants. I have one plant that strongly prefers every four or five during the summer and some that can go seven.

Watering based upon medium type:

-      Bark: water and let stand in water for ten minutes, then drain and fertilize, drain.

-      Potting mixture: water, drain and fertilize, drain.

-      Moss: water, drain and fertilize, drain.

-      Potting mixture with a little moss on the very top – water, drain and fertilize, drain.

Let the pot drain thoroughly. DO NOT let the pot sit in standing water beyond a few minutes while watering. Plants can die by suffocating the roots with standing water.

Wrinkled Leaf ~ indicates stress either through insufficient water, or if one of the leaf is a bit wrinkly it may be getting ready to grow a new leaf.

Wrinkly, hole and yellowed.
Poor thing has been abused by a playful kitten and people  :(

Yellowing ~

~ on top of a leaf indicates too little light

~ spots indicate there may be an insect on the underside of the leaf

~ whole leaf indicates the leaf is dying

Something Looks Wrong ~ look over your leaves and roots regularly for scales, bugs or anything that looks unusual/unhealthy to you. Seek good advice if you have a problem. Do not assume that just because someone works at a nursery/greenhouse they are an expert in orchid care. I have lost orchids by following bad advice from professionals. It seems silly to seek a second opinion for a plant, but it’s a good idea especially if the person is busy or if the staff is small and they obviously don’t specialize in orchids. If the professional you trust is out that day, go back.

Shortly after I received my mega bloomer (before I learned it would deserve that title) I realized it was badly infested. Three professionals clustered around it. That was the time when I felt the most secure about a diagnosis. They reached a general consensus that was correct and two of the three were correct on a particular detail.

~ Totally Personal Notes ~

Most of my pots are filled with a bark potting mixture with moss on top; one arrived with bark, moss and a little popcorn foam. I water three times around the pot, let stand in water eight to ten minutes, drain. Then fertilize, drain well and set back on the window sills. Yes I fertilize every time I water. I recommend humidity trays to provide your orchids with the high level of humidity that best suits their needs. This is one of those do as I say, not as I do things. I used a humidity tray for a while for one plant. I should look into ones that fit the window sills.

Do not blindly follow anyone's advice. Begin by following advice that makes sense to you. Take the time to look at your plants, see how they react to what you do and don't do. They will report how they are doing by the look of the roots, leaves and blooms.

Mine are just fine in on a window sill, with ordinary tap water, and except for that one incident, without humidity trays. Placing a small blow of water among the plants can be an alternative to trays. I keep one very small bowl with water between the two plants in the morning sun window during the summer to attempt to prevent shock. One shocked last summer anyway. As soon as the heat wave slacked off the remainder of the buds bloomed normally. That window also has a sheer to lessen the impact of strong sunlight. Grouping plants together also helps with humidity levels. I have five plants sharing one window sill.

I mist them every morning, water and feed them every five days to ten days depending upon the weather, watch for bugs, new leaves, new roots, new spikes and blooms. I have two that prefer watering every five days and the remainder are fine with every seven, but have no objection to every five during hot weather. They are all watered and fed at the same time.

I have read numerous times that phaels can bloom up to 3 months. I have one I call my mega bloomer. It's first bloom cycle with me, it bloomed 21 weeks and had 50+ blooms! Five months later it bloomed again, for 23 weeks! Its window companion began blooming about the same time and had 35 blooms on five spikes (yes five!). My mega bloomer had 77 plus however many were on the spike (around 30) that broke off during blooming. Awesome!

Mega bloomer about two thirds of way through it's bloom cycle

Mega bloomer at the end of its bloom cycle

Unexpected happenings: I have one pot that has been knocked off of the window sill multiple times by both people and animals. Eventually the orchid broke off at the base. I found it on the window sill, stuck it back in the pot, watered and fed it. Why not? Amazingly it has grown new roots and new leaves!

I have one orchid I thought was growing a new leaf from its base in two spots. Nooo...it has two basal keiki which sprouted from the crown!

I have an orchid that had two spikes, but had not yet begun blooming when I got it. The result of the change of location was that it although it thrived (great leaves); it did not bud and bloom. It was suggested that I cut off the spikes. Well, I didn't. For its next bloom cycle it grew two new spikes. They began blooming, the first two started blooming and then it grew another spike which bloomed!! So it had five bloom spikes producing flowers during one bloom cycle! Awesome!

One vertical spike and four horizontal spikes, two on each side

Your mileage on information you receive varies. I am not a pro, the first portion of the article is what I have learned over a few years of growing. I had some bad advice from professionals and as a result lost an orchid or two. Find your own balance, what works for the orchids sharing your living space. If you look at them each morning as you mist them, you will learn how often they like to be watered, when they need to be repotted, you’ll spy that first bloom and it will brighten your day.

Professional Source Info

The American Orchid Society and Tidewater Orchid Society ~

Fertilizer ~ fertilize at 1/4 strength, or 1/4 to 1/2 of the strength recommended on the package. Fertilize less frequently during the winter. See Fertilizer. 

Humidity ~ phalaenopsis thrive in 60-70 percent humidity. See Humidity Tray and Misting.

Light ~ 30% full sun is ideal. North windows do not normally provide enough light.

More than 16 hours of light a day, including artificial, can prevent flowering!

Location ~ do not position your plant under a heating or air conditioning vent. The dry air will wilt the blooms more quickly.

Mist ~ misting in the evening can contribute to Boitritis a fungus which causes black spots on the petals and sepals.

Rebloom ~ phalaenopsis may rebloom from the old spike. To encourage it, while the spike is still green it should be cut with a sterile blade between the last node (bump/joint on stem) and the first bloom. If the node is drying out then cut about an inch above a lower node. It may grow a new spike that could flower within eight to twelve weeks. If one of the nodes has a tiny green tip tucked inside chose this one and cut about an inch above the node. This new spike is called a secondary spike. Young and weak plants will not rebloom.

After the secondary spike blooms, cut the original spike off at a 45 degree angle about an inch above the base of the spike after it turns yellow.

Repotting ~ repot every 1 to 2 years to freshen the mix.

Roots/watering ~ judge how moist or dry it is by hefting the pot and/or by inserting a pencil. If the orchid is in a potting mix, the lead will darken if the plant has enough moisture. If you have moss on the top of the pot and you think the plant needs water but it’s too soon to water it, wet down the moss and squeeze it out, then lay it on top again. If your orchids grow in moss, or you have moss on top of your potting mixture, drain them immediately, do not let them stand in water before draining. Flowering plants may need to be watered more often.

Temperature ~ ideally mature plants need a temperature difference of 15 to 20 degrees between day and night; 60 to 65 at night, 75 to 85 during the day.