Abra Kadabra!

Abra Kadabra!
Or How I Turned This Needlework Parallelogram

Into This Needlework Pillow

Alakazam!

Synopsis of the blocking challenge ~ Blocking Post Here

I dubbed this the Needlework Parallelogram based on its shape. Before misting and blocking the first time, the needlework was skewed 3-1/2" top to bottom on both the left and right sides. It improved through the first two blockings, but not enough. For the third blocking, I dunked (not soaked) it in water and bullied it into submission. (NOT recommended). After a thorough drying it is now between 3/16” and 5/8” out of square depending upon the edge I am checking.

Click on pictures for larger images

Prep for Construction ~

I intentionally did not plan upon using any of the 1-1/2” cream border. To be able to do so, it would be necessary for the floral portion to be truly square after blocking. I knew I would not be able to achieve that goal considering how out of true it was.

The floral portion of the design without the extra cream border was intended to be a 12” square. As given to me the top and bottom were basically parallel to each other, the left and right sides were slanted badly towards the left. With the 3-1/2” skew the largest possible pillow using only the floral portion would have been 8-1/2” horizontally by 11-1/2” vertically. After blocking an 11” square is possible. Not bad!

I cut the needlework down to 12" which includes some of the cream border, which will be in the seam allowance. The twelve inches includes 11" of floral design plus 1/2" seam allowances.

If a needlework blocks to square, cutting it to fit a pillow form is a simple matter of cutting along the lines of the canvas. If it isn’t square, I recommend marking the cut line. If it is difficult to see where you marked the cut line through the worked and unworked portions of the canvas, run a line of stitching along the cut line before cutting.

Once it is no longer confined by T-pins to a board, the natural tendency of a piece of needlework that was originally distorted is to twist out of shape again. To stabilize the needlework canvas I cut a large square from duck, which is a sturdy cotton fabric. I laid the needlework on top of it and ran a line of stitching 1/4” inside the marked cut line. This line of stitching is also useful for lining up the presser foot for the final 1/2” seam. Next I cut through the needlework canvas and duck to trim off the access fabric along the cut line, resulting in a 12" square. Adding a border will make it large enough for the 14" pillow form.

Advantages of a border ~

~ A border made from the same fabric as the back is normally less bulky than a worked canvas. This one layer of fabric replaces wool, canvas, and in this instance the duck backing the needlework, making it much easier for your machine to handle.

~ When a needlework pillow is sitting up against the back of a couch, it is impossible to see the very bottom of the design you spent hours lovingly working on. With a border, the pillow sits on the border, allowing the needlework to be seen and admired more easily.

Determining Border Size ~

The squared and trimmed needlework is 12”. I want the front and back to be the same size as the pillow form before sewing them together. I am using a 1/2” seam allowance for this project. Soooo – here is the math for the border:

Needlework 12” – 1”= 11” (1” for 1/2” seam allowance on both sides)

Pillow 14” – 11” = 3” (borders)

Two Borders 3” / 2 = 1-1/2” (1-1/2” for each border)

Each Border 1-1/2” + 1/2” = 2” (1/2” for inside seam allowance only) AND 2” (width to cut the borders)

To check your math ~ work it the other way using finished sizes: 11” (needlework) + 1-1/2” + 1-1/2” (two borders) = 14” (pillow)

Pillow Cover Construction ~

For the back she chose a pretty dark apricot/light terracotta color in a moiré bengaline fabric to compliment the needlework.

If you cut the fabric for the back and front the size of the pillow form plus seam allowances, you will find that the pillow cover is a bit loose. It doesn't make sense, but it is. I recommend cutting both the front and back the same size as the pillow form, which results in a nice snug fit.

The pillow form is a 14" square. I cut a 14" square for the back and four 2” x 14” strips for the four front borders from the backing fabric.

Corners ~

~ Square Corners: Place a pin in each corner the width of your seam allowance in from each side to prevent stitching past the turning point.
~ Curved Corners: If the pillow form is well stuffed, square corners appear distorted. You may wish to round the corners of the pillow cover for a more attractive appearance. Use a small round object as a template for your curve. Place it just inside the stitching line at the corner. Trace around it with a removable marker. Trim the excess away from your new corner curve. Repeat for each corner.

No Welting (Cording) ? ~ Skip This !

She gave me welting she had made from 2-1/2” strips of the pillow fabric cut straight across the cross grain. It came equipped with ripples that I can't do anything about without ripping the seam out and trying not to stretch the cord when I remake it. hmmm.....nope.

Click on pictures for larger images

A better choice would be cutting the fabric on the bias for the welting.

I cut the seam allowance wrapped around the cord down to the 1/2” seam allowance I am using. It is important that the seam allowance on the welting not be wider than the allowance used for the pillow cover.

Lay the start of the welting on the right side of the back several inches down from a corner. Line up the raw edges of the welting with the edge of the back. Pin the welting to the fabric. Begin sewing the welting to the back 4” beyond the start of the welting.

IF you chose square corners ~ Stitch up to the pin you placed in the corner, turn and stitch through the seam allowance and off the fabric at a 90 degree angle. Cut threads. Clip welting seam allowance at corner and once or twice about 3/8-1/2” on each side of that cut to flatten the rolled seam allowance caused by turning a corner with the welting.

~ Rotate the fabric to sew the next side. Turn the welting at a firm 90 degree angle and beginning with a few backstitches, sew down the next side. Done correctly it is not necessary to stitch around the welting in the corner. This will be a secure and tight corner. Repeat for every corner.

Back at the Beginning ~ BOTH Curved and Square Corners

~ Continue stitching the welting down until you are 2-3” from where you began. Cut off the remaining welting leaving a 4” tail.

~ Open the fabric on both ends of the welting and nudge the cord out of your way.
~ Smooth each piece of fabric towards the center of the gap until they meet in the middle. Pin right sides together creating a seam allowance. Sew a seam across the flattened ends. To reduce bulk trim seam allowance to 1/4". Press seam open.

~ Cut both ends of the cord at an angle so they overlap without additional bulk.

~ Wrap the fabric around the cord.

~ Finish stitching the welting to the back.

No Welting (Piping) ? ~ Pick Up Again Here !

~ Place needlework face down on back. Pin. Begin sewing the two layers together a few inches before a corner. If you chose square corners, stop at the pin you placed and rotate the top. Continue sewing along each side of the pillow cover, stopping a few inches after the last corner.

Finishing ~

~ Turn cover right side out. Flatten seams open by pressing.

Turned right sides out and ready for pillow form

~ Insert pillow form.

~ Pin opening shut, hand stitch closed.

Finis! Yay!

Kitty paws behind the sewing machine and their intended target
(cover for scissors blade)

Needlework Post Frustration

Working on the final needlework pillow post again. It has halted at least waiting for additional pictures. I know I've taken some detailed ones I can't find. And no, they are not on my camera. I probably can't recreate them now. grrrrr

So I thought I would show you a couple of the ones that won't be included in the post.

Click on pictures for a larger image

First is checking to see how much I was able to square up the canvas before trimming it.

Second is an edge of the trimmed canvas and the strips trimmed off. It was impossible to use the worked border because the needlework wouldn't return to true square. Note that some of the worked border has become seam allowance. That's okay too.

Blocking the Parallelogram

This is my second effort for this lady. Both have been badly out of square. She told me the local needlework shop refused to touch the first one. I don't blame them.

Blocking ~
Before blocking the first time, the needlework was skewed 3" top to bottom on the left side and 3-1/2" on the right side.

Prior to Blocking
Click on Photo for a Larger Image

When working with a project as out of whack as this one is, I mist it liberally with my plant mister, let it set for a while and repeat three to four times letting it absorb some moisture and relax before trying to persuade the canvas into a better shape. The goal is 90 degree angles at the corners and sides parallel to each other.

In preparation for blocking, I normally mist the front and back well with my plant mister and let the fibers relax for thirty minutes.Since this project will take more persuasion, I mist it three times, hoping it will absorb more moisture and relax further.

I then anchor the straightest edge along a straight line on my dressmakers board.  Place the T-pins so they are angled away from the needlework.

This one lines up with a straight line along both the top and bottom edges. It is greatly distorted towards the right in the top left and bottom right corners. Therefore it needs to move to the left. I smoothed the top edge with my clean hands and pinned it along a straight line.

Next I coax the needlework into something more closely resembling a square by working with it. Firmly brushing my hands over the face of the design. By tugging, not yanking, evenly and smoothly on the opposite side and particularly on the bottom left corner.

As the fabric shifts and straightens somewhat, I repin, working with it until I am satisfied that it has given me all it is capable of without forcing it into square.

After the first blocking, it was skewed 1-1/2" on the left about 1-3/4" on the right.

First Blocking

However the second blocking was disappointing. It resulted in almost no improvement 1-1/2" on the left and 1-1/4" on the right.

The canvas was worked with a wool tapestry yarn which recommends dry cleaning. With negligible improvement from the second blocking I made the difficult decision to dunk it, not soak, dunk it in water, let it relax for several minutes and then block it. Freed from the restrictive board, I expected it to distort, but how much? As it relaxed from the warm bath, it snapped back into it's original skew on the left of 3" and stayed at 1-1/2" on the right!

Prior to Third Blocking

I put a sheet of food wrap down on my board to prevent the cardboard from soaking up the water. Looking at it, I have very little hope of achieving my goal. I simply analyzed it for several minutes.

I found the half way point along the bottom edge and worked to line it up as much as possible with the mid-way along the top edge. This time I'm taking off the gloves and fighting dirty. I can't afford to let the wool shrink as it dries out of shape. Soooo....it's time to teach it who is boss.  As I deliberately drag my hand over the surface to move it in the direction it needs to shift, I remember the customer who was concerned over my finger oils on a needlework project I touched when she asked for my advice. I manipulated it, I pinned it, I looked at it critically. The right side was the next one willing to cooperated to some extent. I pinned it in a straight line using a ruler to see how far off the bottom corner was now. Only 1/4" ! Okay, the first little success.

I continued dragging my hands over it, sometimes both at the same time, molding it as I would a clay sculpture. Pinned, the bottom had always been fairly straight, only 1" off. I ignored it and concentrated on the left side, which was showing some improvement. Unpinned it and worked it again. Pinned, critiqued it, unpinned the right side and tweaked. Pinned one final time. It takes the entire container of T-pins.

Part Way through Placing T-Pins on Third and Final Blocking.
Compare this photo to the first one to see the change in shape. Huge!

It is no more than 3/8" off and that is only the highly warped top left and bottom right corners. I am satisfied. I worked with it an hour and a half this session.


I anchored it to the board every inch all of the way around the canvas and let it sit for three days to make absolutely certain it was thoroughly dry before I unpinned it and started working with it for construction. Peeling up the food wrap, I found that a small amount of water did leak through around three of the T-pins.

Checking it with my large square, it is 5/8" off along the top left and bottom right sides, 3/8" off on the bottom and 3/16" off on the top. Considering it started this journey at 3-1/2" off on the sides, I am satisfied. It is now possible to create a pillow cover with it.